PRINT  STYLES 
ON 

SHODDY  MATERIAL 


CASSELLA  COLOR  COMPANY 

182  and  184  Front  Street, 

NEW  YORK. 

Boston:  68  Essex  Street. 

Philadelphia:  126  and  128  South  Front  Street. 
Providence:  64  Exchange  Place. 

Atlanta:  47  North  Pryor  Street. 

Montreal:  P.  Q.:  86 <\ 88  Youville  Square. 


2833 


Franklin  Institute  Library 

PHILADELPHIA 

Class. Book. (2'..%..'/.. 6.. 

3 

A ccessio?i..C.^.^f..3.C/..... 

REFERENCE 


GIVEN  BY 


/ / 


MANUFACTURE  LYONNAISE  DE  MATIERES  COLORANTES,  LYONS. 


Works  ”La  Mouche”. 


LEOPOLD  CASSELLA  & C°,  a.m.b.H.,  FRANKFORT  o. 


Works  at  Mainkur  near  Frankfort  o.  M. 


PRINT  STYLES  ON  SHODDY  MATERIAL 


CASSELLA  COLOR.  COMPANY 


182  AND  184  FRONT  STREET 

NEW  YORK 


BOSTON:  68  essex  street 

PHILADELPHIA:  126  and  128  south  front  street 
PROVIDENCE:  64  exchange  place 
ATLANTA:  47  north  pryor  street 
MONTREAL,  P.  Q.:  86  AND  88  YOUVILLE  SQUARE. 


No  2833. 


Print  Styles  on  Shoddy  Material. 


The  printing  of  shoddy  materials,  which  during  the  last  few  years 
has  acquired  a great  and  constantly  increasing  importance,  may  be 
divided  into  two  groups  according  to  the  method  of  working  employed,  viz: 

A.  The  Discharge  Style  and 

B.  The  Direct  Print  Style. 

The  discharge  style,  the  principal  object  of  which  is  the  imitation 
of  white  and  coloured  effect  threads  on  a solid  ground  colour,  has 
resulted  from  the  Pigment  style  which  yields  similar  effects  by  fixing 
white  or  coloured  pigments  on  the  fabrics  by  means  of  albumen  or 
certain  kinds  of  varnishes. 

Compared  with  this  older  method,  the  discharge  style  offers  more 
particularly  the  advantage  of  better  resistance  in  wearing,  seeing  that  the 
patterns  are  not  merely  fixed  mechanically  on  the  surface  of  the  fibre 
but  are  produced  by  discharging  the  solid  bottom  shade.  The  goods  have 
on  this  account  a much  pleasanter  handle  than  is  the  case  with  the  old 
style  and  bear  a much  closer  resemblance  to  woven  fabrics. 

The  direct  print  style  imitates  in  a very  satisfactory  manner  the 
appearance  of  medley-coloured  fabrics  of  various  designs  by  the  direct 
printing  of  steam  colours  in  narrow,  dark  cover  patterns  on  a light 
coloured  bottom,  and  has  been  adopted  largely,  more  particularly  for 
ladies’  dress  materials.  By  a combination  of  direct  printing  and  discharge 
printing,  a still  greater  variety  may  be  obtained;  in  this  way  pale,  coloured 
effect  threads  may  be  produced  on  a medley-coloured  bottom. 


NOTE 

Naphtylamine  black  is  the  scien- 
tific NAME  OF  THE  COLOR  KNOWN 
COMMERCIALLY  AS  ALIZARINE  BLACK. 

the  lanacyl  Colors  are  known 

COMMERCIALLY  AS  ALIZARINE  LANACYL 

Colors. 


A.  The  Discharge  Style. 


Condition  of  the  Raw  Material. 

Goods  intended  for  discharge  printing  should  consist  of  as  light- 
coloured  shoddy  as  possible,  because  the  white  and  coloured  discharge 
effects  will  lack  brightness  if  the  shade  of  the  raw  material  be  too  dark. 
In  a like  manner  the  goods  should  be  free  from  burls  as  far  as  possible, 
because  these  become  very  pronounced  after  discharging  and  are  apt  to 
disturb  the  general  effect. 

Production  of  the  Dyeings. 

The  goods  are  dyed  in  the  customary  manner  by  either  the  one-dip  or 
two-bath  method;  for  details  we  would  refer  to  the  customary  methods 
of  dyeing  and  in  particular  to  the  instructions  for  the  dyeing  of  shoddy 
given  in  detail  in  our  book  on  ’’The  Dyeing  of  Unions”.  Only  the  products 
enumerated  below,  which  are  easily  dischargeable,  come  into  consideration 
for  the  discharge  style. 

In  particular  it  is  not  admissible  to  stain  the  cotton  warps  with 
sumac  and  iron,  even  if  the  wool  has  been  previously  dyed  with  easily 
dischargeable  dyestuffs,  because  this  would  impair  the  dischargeability  of 
the  cotton  spun  or  woven  together  with  the  shoddy,  and  of  the  woollen 
surface  of  the  goods. 

Special  attention  should  be  paid  to  a thorough  rinsing  and  hydro- 
extracting  of  the  goods  after  dyeing,  because  the  white  discharge  effects 
are  otherwise  apt  to  become  stained  during  washing. 

The  following  dyestuffs  may  be  easily  discharged,  especially  those 
marked  *.  The  Wool  Colours  marked  f are  suitable  for  dyeing  in  a 
neutral  bath. 

Yellow  arid  Orange. 

Dyestuffs  for  the  cotton : 

* Diamine  Yellow  N,  CP 

* Diamine  Fast  Yellow  3G 

* Diamine  Gold 

Oxy  Diamine  Orange  G,  R, 

Dyestuffs  for  the  wool: 

t Indian  Yellow  G,  R.  FF 
* t Orange  extra,  II,  R,  ENZ 

* Acid  Yellow  AT 

* Fast  Yellow  S 

* Orange  G G. 


3 


Pmh  and  Red. 

Dyestuffs  for  the  cotton: 

* Diamine  Rose  pat.,  all  brands 

* Diamine  Red  4B,  5B,  6B,  10B 
Diamine  Red  D 

* Diamine  Scarlet  3B 
Oxy  Diamine  Red  S 

* Diamine  Fast  Red  F 

* Diamine  Bordeaux  B and  S 

* Diamine  Brilliant  Bordeaux  R 

* Diamine  Violet  Red  pat. 

Dyestuffs  for  the  wool: 

* Lanafuchsine  SG,  SB 

* Scarlet  FR,  F2R,  F3R 

* Brilliant  Scarlet  GG-3R 

* Naphtol  Red  C. 

Blue  and  Violet. 

Dyestuffs  for  the  cotton : 

* Diamine  Blue,  ail  brands 

* Diamine  Sky  Blue  pat.,  all  brands 

* Diamine  Fast  Blue  pat.,  all  brands 

* Oxy  Diamine  Blue,  all  brands 

* Diamine  Brilliant  Blue  G pat. 

* Diamine  Steel  Blue  L pat. 

* Diamine  Deep  Blue  R pat. 

* Diamineral  Blue  R pat. 

* Diamine  Dark  Blue  B pat. 

* Diaminogene  pat.,  B,  extra. 

Dyestuffs  for  the  wool : 

f Formyl  Blue  B 

* Azo  Wool  Blue  C pat. 

* Cyanole  pat.,  extra,  FF 
t * Naphtol  Blue  G 

f * Lanacyl  Navy  Blue  B pat. 

Dyestuffs  for  the  cotton : 

* Diamine  Violet  N 

* Diamine  Heliotrope  0,  G pat.  and  B 

* Oxy  Diamine  Violet  pat.,  B,  G,  R. 

Dyestuffs  for  the  wool: 

f Formyl  Violet  S4B 
f Lanacyl  Violet  B pat. 

* Acid  Violet  4 R S. 


4 


Green. 

Dyestuffs  for  the  cotton: 

* Diamine  Green  pat.,  G,  B,  N A,  CL 

* Diamine  Dark  Green  N pat. 

* Diamine  Black  HW  pat. 

Dyestuffs  for  the  wool: 

f Indian  Yellow  G 
*fNaphtol  Blue  G 
f Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 
fNaphtol  Blue  Black. 


Olive. 

Those  dyestuffs  indicated  for  Green,  shaded  according  to  require- 
ment with  those  mentioned  for  Yellow  and  Brown. 


Brown. 

Dyestuffs  for  the  cotton: 

* Diamine  Brown  B,  M,  R and  S 

* Diamine  Brown  pat.,  No  30a,  38,  43 

* Diamine  Catechine  B,  G pat.  and  3 G 

* Oxy  Diamine  Brown  3GN. 


Dyestuffs  for  the  wool: 

* f Orange  extra,  ENZ 

f Indian  Yellow  G,  R,  FF 

* fNaphtol  Blue  G 

f Brilliant  Milling  Green  B. 


Black. 


Dyestuffs  for  the  cotton: 


* Union  Black  S pat. 

* Diamine  Jet  Black  pat.,  SS,  Cr,  00,  RB 

* Diamine  Fast  Black  F pat. 

* Oxy  Diamine  Black  pat.,  A,  SA,  FFC,  US 

* Oxy  Diamine  Black  pat.,  JE,  JEI,  JB,  JW,  JWF 

* Para  Diamine  Black  B pat. 

Diamine  Black  RMW  pat.  (for  coloured 

discharges  only). 


Dyestuffs  for  the  wool: 


f Naphtol  Blue  Black 
* Naphtylamine  Black  EFF  pat. 


5 


For  grey  artel  mode  shades,  combinations  of  the  following: 

Dyestuffs  for  cotton  : 

* Diamine  Grey  G 

* Diaminogene  pat.,  B,  extra 

* Diamine  Dark  Blue  B pat. 

* Diamine  Catechine  B pat. 

* Diamine  Bordeaux  B 

* Diamine  Catechine  3G 

* Diamine  Yellow  CP. 

Dyestuffs  for  the  wool: 

f Formyl  Blue  B 
fNaphtol  Blue  G 
fLanacyl  Violet  B pat. 
fAzo  Red  A 
f Indian  Yellow  G. 


Preparation  of  the  White  and  Coloured  Discharges. 


1.  White  Discharge. 


The  composition  of  the  white  discharge  depends  to  a certain  extent 
on  the  more  or  less  deep  colouring  of  the  shoddy  weft,  and  should 
therefore  be  adapted  to  the  goods  to  be  discharged.  With  a suitable 
engraving  a good  white  effect  may  be  obtained  even  on  dark  coloured  goods 
according  to  the  following  recipe : 


45  parts  by  weight  of  wheat  starch  are  stirred  to  a paste  with 

360  „ „ „ „ water  and 

130  „ „ ,,  „ tragacanth  solution  65: 1000,  and  boiled 

up  well.  When  still  warm, 

„ „ „ Hyraldite  CW  extra  are  dissolved  in 

the  mixture.  Then 

„ „ „ zinc  white  are  stirred  in,  and  when  cold 

„ „ „ egg  albumen  1 : 1 and 

„ „ ,.  turpentine  oil  are  added. 


225  „ 

150  „ 

80  „ 

10  » 
1000  parts. 


For  the  stated  quantity  of  egg  albumen  1 : 1,  about  half  as  much  again 
of  blood  albumen  may  also  be  substituted,  which  should  however  best  be 
added  in  dilute  solution,  this  being  done  cautiously  and  in  small  portions, 
because  thick  solutions  are  apt  to  coagulate  when  entered  into  the 
thickening  containing  Hyraldite. 


It  is  recommended  to  keep  the  discharge  as  dilute  as  possible  in 
order  to  it  make  penetrate  well  into  the  rough  fabrics  and  to  preclude 
any  foaming  during  lengthy  printing. 

The  discharge  is  passed  through  a ball -mill  and  then  strained 
through  a very  fine  sieve. 


2.  Coloured  Discharges. 


In  the  coloured  discharges  the  dyestuffs  may  be  fixed  on  the  fibre 
by  means  either  of  albumen  or  tannin-glycerine.  For  shoddy  goods  preference 
is  given  to  the  discharges  containing  tannin,  which  are  prepared  as  follows: 


About  60  parts  by  weight  of 
50  „ „ 

410  „ 

220  „ 


n n 


150  „ 


80  „ 

30  „ „ 


Basic  Colour  are  dissolved  at  the  boil 
glycerine  and  [with 

water ; 

British  gum  are  made  to  a paste  with 
this  solution  and  boiled  up  well. 
Whilst  cooling 

Hyraldite  C extra  are  added  at  about 
60 n C.  (140  deg.  F.)  and  dissolved, 
and  when  quite  cold, 
tannin-glycerine  1:1  are  stirred  in 
very  gradually,  and 
phenol  added  finally. 


1000  parts. 


The  addition  of  phenol  should  however  be  omitted  when  using  the 
red  dyestuffs  enumerated  below,  because  these  would  thereby  be  deterio- 
rated. The  tannin-glycerine  must  not  be  too  thick;  in  order  to  dilute  it 
if  necessary,  its  solution  is  prepared  in  the  proportion  of  1 part  tannic 
acid,  V-  glycerine,  l/t  water  (instead  of  1 part  tannic  acid  and  1 part 
glycerine),  correspondingly  increasing  the  amount  of  glycerine  for  dissolving 
the  dyestuff. 

The  coloured  discharges  prepared  with  albumen  which  are  chiefly 
used  for  the  production  of  bright  red  effects  with  the  Eosine  Colours,  and 
likewise  in  combination  with  Hyraldite  CW  extra  and  slight  percentages 
of  dyestuff  for  specially  bright  shades,  are  prepared  as  follows: 

About  60  parts  by  weight  of  dyestuff  are  well  dissolved  and  boiled 


up  with 

345  „ „ 

„ „ water, 

50  „ „ 

„ „ glycerine  and 

220  „ 

„ ,,  British  gum.  When  cold, 

125  „ „ 

„ ,,  Hyraldite  CW  extra,  dissolved  in 

100  „ „ 

„ ,,  water,  are  stirred  in,  and 

100  „ 

„ „ egg  albumen  1 : 1 are  finally  added. 

1000  parts. 

printing  colours 

are  well  strained  and  if  necessary  passed 

through  a ball-mill,  being  then  ready  for  use. 

1 he  following  dyestutfs  serve  as  additions  to  the  coloured  discharges, 
as  they  sufficiently  resist  the  action  of  the  Hyraldite: 


For  yellow: 

Thioflavine  T,  S 
Phosphine  II  a 

Diamond  Phosphine  GG,  R,  PG,  D. 

For  blue: 

New  Methylene  Blue  NSS,  GG  pat. 

For  red: 

Irisamine  G 
Rosazeine  6G  and  B 
Eosine  G GF,  3 G 
Erythrosine  B 
Phloxine  B. 

The  green  shades  are  produced  by  a suitable  blending  of  the  corre- 
sponding yellow  and  blue,  the  purple  shades  by  mixing  blue  and  red 
dyestuffs;  olive  from  New  Methylene  Blue  NSS  and  Diamond  Phosphine, 
orange  from  Irisamine  G and  Thioflavine  T or  Diamond  Phosphine  R. 

On  pages  15  and  16  will  be  found  a number  of  special  recipes  for  the 
preparation  of  coloured  discharges  for  the  effect  styles  most  in  demand. 


Printing. 

Shoddy  materials  will  always  lose  a good  many  more  small  fibres 
and  hairs  than  other  kinds  of  material. 

On  beaming  for  printing  already,  the  pieces  should  be  vigorously 
brushed  and  such  particles  removed  if  necessary  by  beating.  Lint  doctors 
or  stiff  brushes,  fitting  as  closely  as  possible,  should  furthermore  be  used 
to  prevent  foreign  bodies  from  getting  into  the  print  paste ; besides  it  is 
well  to  strain  the  print  paste  frequently,  because,  in  spite  of  every 
precaution,  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  prevent  small  fibres  from  being 
conveyed  into  the  paste. 

The  white  discharges,  as  well  as  colour  pastes  containing  Hyraldite 
CW  extra,  are  best  printed  with  the  brush  furnisher. 

In  the  case  of  multi-coloured  discharge  patterns  it  should  be  made 
a rule  to  print  the  white  always  with  the  last  roller,  as  it  is  otherwise  apt 
to  be  affected  by  crushing  and  transferring. 

In  order  to  prevent  the  coloured  discharge  pastes  from  being 
transferred  on  to  the  white  discharge  and  staining  it  during  prolonged 
printing,  it  is  advisable  to  work  the  colour-box  with  as  little  white  print 
paste  as  possible  and  to  replenish  the  white  paste  frequently,  or  to  empty 
the  colour-box  entirely  from  time  to  time  and  stir  up  the  contaminated 
white  discharge  with  a considerable  quantity  of  fresh  paste. 


8 


The  pressure  to  be  applied  in  the  printing  should  be  regulated 
according  to  the  depth  of  the  engraving  and  the  nature  of  the  material 
to  be  printed.  As  a rule,  it  is  recommended  to  work  with  a strong 
pressure,  using  a fairly  soft  and  elastic  covering  on  the  pressure  bowl. 


Treatment  before  the  Steaming. 

The  goods  printed  with  the  discharge  should  leave  the  drying 
apparatus  in  a well  dried  state;  before  steaming  they  are  then  plated  down 
a few  times  in  the  air  in  order  to  cool  evenly  and  to  absorb  moisture. 

They  should  never  be  left  lying  very  long  before  steaming,  but 
should  be  run  continuously,  if  possible,  from  the  machine  to  the 
Mather  & Platt.  On  the  other  hand,  the  goods  may  quite  well  be  allowed 
to  lie  for  some  time  after  the  steaming. 

Steaming  the  Discharge  Prints. 

The  only  reliable  way  of  developing  the  discharge  prints  to  full 
satisfaction  is  in  a Mather  & Platt  steamer;  large  lots  cannot  be  satisfactorily 
discharged  in  a round  steamer. 

In  order  to  get  the  full  discharging  effect  in  the  Mather  & Platt,  the 
steamer  should  be  sufficiently  large  and  provided  with  means  for  regulating 
its  speed  so  as  to  allow  of  the  goods  remaining  therein  for  10  to  lf>  minutes 
in  one  passage.  If,  however,  a contrivance  of  this  kind  is  not  available, 
there  is  no  objection  to  the  goods  passing  several  times  through  a smaller 
apparatus,  say  about  twice,  each  time  for  5 to  7 minutes. 

In  order  to  obtain  satisfactory  discharge  effects,  the  following 
points  have  to  be  kept  well  in  view: 

1.  The  temperature  of  the  steam  should  be  102-105°  C.  (215  221 
deg.  F.),  which  may  usually  be  attained  without  difficulty  by 
reducing  as  much  as  possible  the  size  of  the  openings  through 
which  the  goods  pass  in  and  out,  and  by  isolating  the  machine 
and  the  steam  conduit  as  well  as  possible. 

3.  The  steamer  should  be  as  free  from  air  as  possible;  this  is 
effected  by  reducing  the  size  of  the  openings  as  afore-mentioned, 
and  by  maintaining  a vigorous  play  of  steam.  It  is  also  of 
considerable  advantage  to  pass  the  back  cloth  several  times 
through  the  steamer  before  entering  the  printed  goods. 

3.  The  steam  should  also  contain  a certain  amount  of  moisture; 
it  is  not  to  be  recommended  to  use  superheated  steam 
(in  order  for  instance,  to  attain  a higher  temperature). 

If  a temperature  of  over  100°  C.  (212  deg.  F.)  should  be  difficult  to 
attain  in  the  ordinary  way,  this  may  easily  be  achieved  by  inserting  heating 


9 


pipes  (as  per  sketch  below),  by  which  means  the  steamer  can  be  suffi- 
ciently heated  beforehand. 


The  goods  to  be  discharged  enter  the  Mather  & Platt  at  A ; B represents  gilled 
pipes,  the  number  of  which  is  regulated  by  the  size  of  the  machine.  Otherwise  the  arrange- 
ments are  the  same  as  those  of  the  ordinary  Mather  & Platt. 


The  Basic  Colours  used  in  the  coloured  discharges  mostly  come 
from  the  steamer  in  a largely  reduced  state  and  only  gradually  become 
re-oxydised  on  contact  with  the  air.  This  process  may  be  very  much 
accelerated  by  subsequently  steaming  the  prints  for  half-an-hour  in  a 
round  steamer  with  damp  steam,  which  process  also  fixes  the  dyestuffs 
considerably  better,  and  covers  well  any  burls  happening  to  be  in  the 
material,  especially  in  the  case  of  printing  large  designs. 


Washing  the  Discharged  Goods. 

The  discharged  goods  have  to  be  washed  full  width ; as  a rule  it  is 
sufficient  to  take  the  goods  a few  times  backwards  and  forwards 
through  a roller-box  filled  with  cold  water,  and  finally  to  press  them  off 
well  by  means  of  a strong  pair  of  squeezing  rollers.  The  goods  are  not 
infrequently  taken  through  the  size  in  a padding  machine  only,  thus 
combining  the  washing  and  sizing  operations. 

The  goods  when  washed  and  hydroextracted,  or  merely  squeezed 
off,  should  never  be  allowed  to  lie  for  any  length  of  time  in  batches, 
because  the  white  discharge  effects  may  thus  be  easily  tinted  or  dulled 
through  bleeding  of  the  ground  colour. 

When  washed  and  sized,  or  only  washed,  as  the  case  may  be,  the 
goods  are  dried  without  any  long  delay  on  the  tentering  machine,  and 
then  finished  according  to  requirement. 


B.  The  Direct  Print  Style. 


Production  of  the  Dyeings. 

For  the  direct  print  style  the  choice  of  suitable  dyestuffs  is  not 
limited  as  is  the  case  for  the  discharge  style;  any  dyestuffs  suitable  for 
dyeing  unions  may  in  fact  be  used. 

The  effect  obtained  with  the  direct  print  style  being  dependent  upon 
the  contrast  between  the  dark  print  and  the  lighter  ground  shade,  as  light- 
coloured  raw  material  as  possible  should  be  selected  in  this  case  also  in 
order  to  be  able  to  produce  light  and  yet  pronounced  shades. 


Dyestuffs  for  Direct  Prints. 


The  Diamine  Colours  owe  their  prominent  position  for  the  direct 
printing  of  shoddy  fabrics  to  their  excellent  fastness  to  washing  and 
water.  The  brightness  of  their  prints  may  be  considerably  enhanced  by 
combining  in  the  print  pastes  direct  dyestuffs  with  neutral  Wool  Colours. 
Basic  Colours,  which  are  used  to  a much  smaller  extent  for  this  line,  may 
be  printed  both  with  tannic  acid  or  without  a mordant,  as  they  are 
sufficiently  fixed  already  by  the  direct  colour  which  has  as  a rule  been 
dyed  previously. 

The  Diamine  Colours  mentioned  below  are  well  suited  as  print  colours 
for  shoddy  owing  to  their  good  solubility  and  other  properties: 


Diamine  Bordeaux  VRO,  S 
Diamine  Brilliant  Bordeaux  R 
Diamine  Purpurine  B,  3B,  6B 
Diamine  Rose  BD,  GD 
Diamine  Brilliant  Scarlet  S 
Diamine  Red  4B,  5B,  6B  pat. 
Diamine  Orange  D,  G,  F 
Diamine  Fast  Yellow  pat.,  F F,  A 
Diamine  Yellow  CP,  N 
Diamine  Green  pat.,  B,  G,  CL 
Diamine  Dark  Green  N pat. 


Diamine  Sky  Blue  and  FF  pat. 
Diamine  Brilliant  Blue  G pat. 
Diamine  Blue  2B,  3B,  3R.  BX,  RW 
Diatninogene  extra  pat. 

Union  Black  pat.,  B,  BN  for  Printing 
Oxy  Diamine  Black  pat.,  A extra  cone., 
FFC  extra  cone.,  JEI  extra  cone. 
Para  Diamine  Black  pat.,  B,  BB  extra 
Oxy  Diamine  Violet  pat.,  B,  G,  R 
Diamine  Heliotrope  pat.,  G,  0 
Diamine  Brown  B pat.,  S,  3G,  R,  M. 


The  following  neutral-dyeing  Wool  Colours  may  be  applied  to 
advantage  in  combination  with  the  above-mentioned  Diamine  Colours  in 
the  print  paste: 

Rosazei'ne  B Formyl  Blue  B 

Orange  II,  ENZ  Formyl  Violet  10B,  S4B 

Indian  Yellow  G Naphtol  Blue  Black. 

Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 


11 


Preparation  of  the  Print  Pastes. 


The  print  pastes  are  prepared  in  a very  simple  manner.  The  dyestuff 
is  first  dissolved  in  water  and  glycerine  with  the  addition  of  some  phosphate 
of  soda,  at  the  boil  This  solution  is  then  stirred  to  a paste  with  some 
thickening,  usually  wheat  starch  and  dextrine,  by  boiling  well  for  about 
15  to  20  minutes  and  stirring  until  cold.  These  pastes  are  ready  for  use 
after  straining  through  a fine  piece  of  cloth.  As  the  engravings  are 
usually  rather  deep,  the  consistency  of  the  pastes  should  not  be  too 
thin,  to  prevent  running  of  the  colour.  The  proportions  of  the  thickening 
agents  vary  according  to  their  kind  and  quality.  The  following  recipe 
shows  the  standard  composition  of  a print  paste: 


60-  90  parts  by  weight  of  Diamine  Colour 


755—725  „ 

30  „ 

35  „ 

60  „ 

60  „ 
1000  parts. 


water 

glycerine 

phosphate  of  soda 
wheat  starch 
dextrine. 


If  larger  proportions  of  wool  dyestuff  are  used  in  the  print  paste, 
the  preference  is  usually  given  to  the  ordinary  acid  starch-tragacanth 
thickening,  in  which  case  up  to  100  parts  by  weight  of  alcohol  may  to 
advantage  be  added  to  facilitate  dissolving;  for  instance: 

30  parts  by  weight  of  Diamine  Colour 


30  ,,  ,, 

„ 

„ Wool  Colour 

290  „ 

11 

,,  water 

50  „ 

11 

„ glycerine 

500  ,,  „ 

11 

„ acid  starch-tragacanth  thickening 

100  „ „ 

11 

„ alcohol 

1000  parts. 

Acid  Starch-Tragacanth  Thickening. 

85  parts  by  weight  of  wheat  starch 
320  „ „ „ „ water 

365  „ „ „ „ tragacanth  solution  65:1000 

200  „ „ „ „ acetic  acid  of  8°  Tw. 

30  „ „ „ „ olive  oil. 

1000  parts. 

If  desired  to  combine  discharge  printing  with  direct  printing, 
it  is  best  to  use  none  but  easily  dischargeable  dyestuffs  both  for  dyeing 
the  ground  shade  and  for  the  printing.  In  this  manner  one  is  not  confined 
to  printing  fitted  patterns,  but  may  print  heavy  designs  over  first 
printed  discharge  effects  (checks,  stripes,  etc.),  the  discharging  power  of 
Hyraldite  being  sufficient  to  destroy  both  the  dyestuff  of  the  previously 
dyed  ground  shade  and  also  of  the  print  colour  printed  over  the 
discharge. 


12 


Steaming  the  Printed  Goods. 

As  in  the  case  of  discharge  prints,  the  plating  down  and  cooling 
off  of  the  printed  goods  on  leaving  the  hot -flue  in  a dry  state  has 
proved  of  material  advantage,  all  kinds  of  irregular  results  such  as 
cloudiness,  lists,  etc.  being  thus  preventable. 

The  plated  pieces  are  steamed  for  about  an  hour  in  an  ordinary 
steam-box  or  round  steamer,  with  damp  steam  and  without  pressure,  in 
the  manner  usually  applied  for  print  styles  on  pure  woollen  goods.  A 
greater  degree  of  moisture  may  also  be  imparted  to  the  pieces  by 
wrapping  them  previously  in  damp  cloths,  whereby  the  dyeings  gain 
considerably  in  brightness  of  shade;  excessive  moisture  must,  however, 
be  carefully  avoided  as  it  is  apt  to  cause  the  prints  to  run.  As  a rule,  the 
plating  down  in  the  air,  in  combination  with  the  application  of  very  damp 
steam  (which  may  to  advantage  be  passed  through  water  before  entering 
the  steamer),  will  be  sufficient  to  fix  the  print  colours  well  and  yield 
sufficiently  bright  shades. 

Patterns  showing  discharge  effects  alongside  of  print  effects  produced 
with  Diamine  Colours  should  in  the  first  place  be  treated  in  a Mather  & Platt 
just  like  ordinary  discharged  goods,  and  only  after  this  has  been  done 
is  the  steaming  continued  as  described  above,  in  order  to  fix  the  print 
colours.  For  such  goods  the  plating  down  previous  to  the  steaming  as 
referred  to  above  is  of  the  same  importance  as  for  discharged  goods. 


Washing  the  Goods. 

The  ordinary  direct  prints  are  washed  thoroughly  in  rope  form  and 
with  pressure  in  the  ordinary  washing  machine ; after  hydroextracting  and 
tentering  they  are  ready  for  finishing. 

Print  patterns  in  combination  with  discharge  effects  must  likewise 
be  treated  full  width  or,  if  this  is  not  feasible,  in  rope  form,  but  without 
pressure ; in  addition  to  leaving  the  more  or  less  fine  discharge  effects 
in  as  good  condition  as  possible,  it  is  important  to  remove  the  thickening 
very  thoroughly  so  that  it  may  not  impair  the  handle  of  the  goods. 


Supplement  to  the  Direct  Print  Style. 


The  Printing  of  Pigment  White. 

The  printing  of  pigments  mentioned  at  the  beginning  of  this 
pamphlet  is  of  course  also  to  be  considered  as  a direct  print  style. 
Although  it  is  being  more  and  more  supplanted  by  the  discharge  method 
which  yields  faster  colours  and  superior  designs,  we  give  in  the  following 
for  the  sake  of  completeness  a method  which  has  been  successfully  applied 
in  practice  : 


350  parts  by 

weight  of  zinc  white  are  stirred  to  a paste  with 

175 

>>  >> 

yy 

„ water  and 

50 

yy  yy 

yy 

„ glycerine. 

300 

yy  yy 

„ 

„ blood  albumen  1:2  and 

50 

yy  yy 

„ 

,,  turpentine  oil  are  then  added, 

75 

1000 

yy  yy 

parts 

yy 

„ linseed  oil  varnish  being  stirred  finally 
into  the  mixture. 

The  paste  is  prepared  cold  and  ground  twice. 

This  style  requires  rather  deep  engravings  and  good  brushing 
arrangements  (a  rotating  counter  brush  and  a brush  in  the  colour-box)  in 
order  to  avoid  the  print  pastes  from  clogging  the  grooves  of  the  roller. 
Coloured  effects  are  produced  by  using  earth  colours,  such  as  vermilion, 
ultramarine,  chrome  yellow,  or  Guignet’s  green. 

After  printing,  the  colours  are  fixed  by  means  of  a short  steaming. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  wash  the  goods. 

The  pigments  are  frequently  also  fixed  by  means  of  different 
varnishes,  usually  according  to  some  secret  processes,  by  simply  printing 
on  and  then  ageing  in  the  air,  but  a certain  unpleasant  greasy  odour  or 
handle  can  never  be  quite  removed  from  goods  produced  in  this  manner. 


General  Printing  Directions. 


Method 

of  producing  the  White  Discharge. 

45 

parts  by  weight  of 

wheat  starch, 

360 

„ „ 

yy  yy 

water  and 

130 

yy  n 

yy  yy 

tragacanth  solution  65 : 1000  are  stirred 

225 

yy  yy 

yy  yy 

together  to  a paste,  and  boiled, 
Hyraldite  CW  extra  being  dissolved  in  this 

150 

yy  yy 

paste  while  still  warm, 
zinc  white  are  further  stirred  in,  and  when 

80 

yy  >> 

yy  yy 

egg  albumen  1:1  and  [cold, 

10 

yy  yy 

y>  yy 

turpentine  oil  are  added. 

1000 

parts. 

Directions  for 

tlie  Coloured  Discharges. 

100 

parts  by 

No  I. 

weight  of  dyestuff  are  well  boiled  and  dissolved  with 

300 

>>  >> 

yy  yy 

water, 

75 

>)  )) 

yy  yy 

glycerine  and 

200 

>>  >> 

yy  yy 

British  gum.  When  cold, 

125 

yy  yy 

yy  yy 

Hyraldite  CW  extra  dissolved  in 

100 

yy  yy 

yy  yy 

water  are  stirred  in,  and 

100 

yy  yy 

yy  yy 

egg  albumen  1 : 1 are  then  added. 

1000  parts. 

26—  80  parts  by  weight  of 

No  II. 

dyestuff  are  dissolved  by  boiling  with 

50 

yy  yy 

yy  yy 

glycerine  and 

464  390 

yy  yy 

yy  yy 

water,  then  stirred  to  a paste  with 

220  - 200 

yy  yy 

yy  yy 

British  gum  and  again  well  boiled.  While 

150 

yy  yy 

yy  yy 

stirring, 

Hyraldite  C extra  are  added  at  about  60"  C. 

60  -100 

yy  yy 

(140  deg.  F.)  and  dissolved.  When  cold, 
tannin-glycerine  1 : 1 are  added  in  a thin 

30 

yy  yy 

yy  yy 

and  gradual  stream  and  finally 
phenol. 

1000  parts. 


After  printing  and  drying,  the  goods  are  steamed  for  about  12  minutes 

in  a Mather  & Platt,  washed  full  width  in  a padding  machine,  and  dried. 

N.  IS.  In  Method  II,  the  phenol  should  be  substituted  bv  glycerine  if  red  dyestuffs 
are  used.  J B J 


Special  Recipes  for  Coloured  Discharges  for  current 
Effect  Styles. 


For  Red: 


100  parts 

Eosine  GGF 

according  to  Method  I, 
page  14. 

50  „ 

Erythrosine  B 

according  to  Method  I, 

50  „ 

Eosine  GGF 

page  14. 

75  „ 

Iris  amine  G 

according  to  Method  II, 

15  „ 

Thioflavine  T 

page  14. 

For  Scarlet: 

85  parts 

Eosine  3G 

according  to  Method  II, 

15  „ 

Tliioflavine  S 

page  14. 

For  Orange: 

15  parts 

Irisamine  G 

according  to  Method  II, 

40  „ 

Tliioflavine  T 

page  14. 

40  „ 

Diamond  Phosphine 

R 

according  to  Method  II, 

10  „ 

Diamohd  Phosphine 

GG 

page  14. 

For  Yellow: 

70  parts 

Tliioflavine  T 

according  to  Method  II, 

10  „ 

Diamond  Phosphine 

GG 

page  14. 

35  „ 

Tliioflavine  T 

according  to  Method  II, 

20  „ 

Phosphine  II  a 

page  14. 

For  Green: 

8 parts 

New  Methylene  Blue  NSS 

according  to  Method  II, 

37  „ 

Tliioflavine  T 

page  14. 

12  „ 

New  Methylene  Blue 

NSS 

according  to  Method  II, 

18  „ 

Thioflavine  T 

page  14. 

24  „ 

New  Methylene  Blue 

NSS 

according  to  Method  II, 

16  „ 

Thioflavine  T 

page  14. 

16 


For  Olive: 

60  parts  Diamond  Phosphine  GG 
4 „ New  Methylene  Blue  NSS 

45  „ Thioflavine  T 

12  „ New  Methylene  Blue  NSS 

10  „ Rosazei'ne  6G 


according  to 
page 


Method  II, 
14, 


according  to 
page 


Method  II, 
14. 


For  Blue: 


40  parts 

New  Methylene  Blue  NSS 

according  to 
page 

Method 

14. 

II, 

25  „ 

New  Methylene  Blue  NSS 

according  to 

Method 

II, 

12  „ 

Irisamine  G 

page 

14. 

15  „ 

New  Methylene  Blue  NSS 

according  to 

Method 

I, 

2 „ 

Thioflavine  T 

page 

14. 

For  Heliotrope: 

50  parts  Irisamine  G according  to  Method  II, 

10  „ New  Methylene  Blue  NSS  page  14. 


For  Brown  : 

60  parts  Diamond  Phosphine  D 
25  „ Rosazei'ne  6G 

1 „ New  Methylene  Blue  NSS 


according  to 
page 


Method  II, 
14. 


General  Method  for  the  Application  of  the  Direct  Print  Style. 


No  I. 


75  - 90  parts  by  weight  of  dyestuff  are  dissolved  a)  the  boil  with 


740  - 725  „ 

„ 

„ water, 

CO 

o 

3 

n 

„ glycerine  and 

35  „ 

n 

„ phosphate  of  soda; 

60  „ 

n 

„ wheat  starch  and 

60  „ „ 
1000  parts. 

- 

„ dextrine  are  stirred  to  a paste  with 
this  solution  and  the  whole  is  then 

boiled  for  about  >/4  — ‘/a  hour. 


No  II. 


60 

parts  by  weight 

of  Diamine  Colour  and  wool  dyestuff 
are  dissolved  at  the  boil  with 

290 

„ » 

„ 

„ water  and 

50 

n n 

„ 

„ glycerine.  The  solution  is  mixed  with 

50 

» „ 

„ 

„ alcohol  and  stirred  into 

500 

» » 

” 

„ acetic  acid  starch  thickening.  The 
whole  is  boiled  up  well,  and  when 
cold 

50 

1000 

»>  M 

parts. 

»» 

„ alcohol  may  finally  be  added. 

The  pieces  printed  with  this  colour  are  steamed  moist  for  1 hour 
without  pressure,  then  washed  in  rope  form,  and  dried. 


Discharge  Patterns  from  Practice. 


Shoddy  Goods  dyed  by  the  One-bath  Method 

and  discharged  with  Hyraldite  CW  extra  pat. 


Patterns  No  1—6  illustrate  the  real  discharge  style  on  various  qualities  of 
shoddy  weft  cotton  warp  goods.  The  dyeings  may  all 
be  produced  by  the  one-bath  method  with  the  easily 
dischargeable  dyestuffs  given  for  the  respective  patterns. 
On  pages  15  and  16  some  general  instructions  are  given, 
approved  in  practice,  relating  to  the  preparation  and 
application  of  the  white  and  coloured  discharges. 

The  printed  goods  were  further  treated  according 
to  the  instructions  mentioned  on  pages  7 — 10. 


Dyed  with: 


Discharged  with: 


No  1.  Formyl  Violet  S4B 

Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 
Oxy  Diamine  Black  A pat. 


White  discharge:  Method  on  page  14. 


I New  Methylene  Blue 
Green  discharge:  t _ xrqq 

* l Thioflavine  T.  s a 


No  2.  Oxy  Diamine  Black  JW  pat.  White  discharge:  As  above. 


No  3.  Oxy  Diamine  Black  JB  pat. 
Formyl  Violet  10B. 


Blue  discharge: 


f New  Methylene  Blue 
I Irisamine  G. 


I 


20 


No  4. 


No  5. 


No  6 


Shoddy  Goods  dyed  by  the  One-bath  Method 

and  discharged  with  Hyraldite  CW  extra  pat. 


(See  also  page  18). 

Dyed  with:  Discharged  with: 


Oxy  Diamine  Black  A pat. 
Oxy  Diamine  Black  JB  pat. 

White  discharge: 

Method  on  page  14. 

Formyl  Blue  B pat. 

Blue  discharge:  j 

f New  Methylene  Blue 
{ Irisamine  G.  N S S 

Green  discharge:  | 

[ New  Methylene  Blue 
1 Thioflavine  T.  NSS 

Oxy  Diamine  Black  U S 
Diamine  Yellow  CP 

White  discharge: 

As  above. 

Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 

Blue  discharge: 

As  above. 

Orange  extra. 

Green  discharge: 

As  above. 

Oxy  Diamine  Black  JB  pat. 
Formyl  Violet  10B. 

White  discharge: 

As  above. 

_ ...  f Irisamine  G 

Orange  discharge:'. 

\ Thioflavine  T 


or 

Diamond  Phosphine  R. 


Green  discharge: 


As  above. 


II 


22 


Shoddy  Goods  dyed  by  the  One-bath  Method 

and  discharged  with  Hyraldite  CW  extra  pat. 


Nos  7 — 9 illustrate  a combination  of  discharge  and  direct  printing,  showing 
Hyraldite  discharges  printed  along  with  Logwood  Black. 


After  the  printing,  drying  and  plating  down,  the  discharge  is  in 
the  first  place  developed  by  a passage  of  from  10  to  15  minutes 
through  a Mather  & Platt;  then  the  Logwood  Black  is  fixed 
by  steaming  for  about  an  hour  in  an  ordinary  steam-box, 
whereupon  the  goods  are  washed. 


Dyed  with  : Discharged  with : 


Diamine  Black  RMW  pat.  f New  Methylene  Blue 

Oxy  Diamine  Brown  3 GN  Grem  dlschcir£e:  ( Thioflavine  T.  NSS 


Oxy  Diamine  Black  A pat. 
Indian  Yellow  G. 


No  8.  Diamine  Black  RMW  pat. 
Naphtol  Blue  Black 
Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 
Formyl  Violet  S4B. 


Green  discharge:  As  above. 


No  9.  Diamine  Yellow  CP 

Diamine  Dark  Green  N pat.  ^ed  discharge. 


| Irisamine  G 
| Thioflavine  T. 


Diamine  Black  BH 
Brilliant  Milling  Green  B. 


f Diamond  Phosphine 
Brown  discharge:  Rosaze'fne  6G 

I New  Methylene  Blue 


NSS. 


The  printed  Black  in  all  three  patterns  is  Logwood  Black. 


Ill 


24 


Shoddy  Goods  dyed  by  the  One-bath  Method, 

with  Diamine  Colours  and  Neutral  Wool  Colours  printed  on. 


No  10.  The  two  patterns  show  the  nature  of  the  raw  material  used. 

Along  with  each  pattern  is  mentioned  the  bottom  on  which  it 
has  been  produced.  (Nos  11  and  22  have  been  dyed  on  a 
different  kind  of  raw  material  possessing  a reddish  shade.) 

Nos  11  24  represent  the  direct  print  style  with  Diamine  Colours  or 

Diamine  Colours  in  combination  with  neutral  Wool  Colours. 
The  printing  and  finishing  of  the  goods  is  carried  out  in 
accordance  with  the  directions  on  pages  11-13. 

The  general  recipes  for  printing,  applicable  for  the  dyestuffs 


mentioned,  are  given  on 


Dyed  with : 

No  11.  3 o/u  Diamine  Red  10  B pat. 


No  12.  0,75  0 o Diamine  Black  RMW  pat. 
0,25  o/0  Diamine  Orange  B 
0,03  o/o  Formyl  Blue  B 

on  a drab  bottom. 

No  13.  0,4  o/o  Diamine  Black  RMW  pat. 

on  a grey  bottom. 

No  14.  0,5  o/o  Diamine  Black  BH 

0,5  o/o  Formyl  Blue  B 
0,02  o/o  Brilliant  Milling  Green  B. 


page  17. 


Printed  with: 

40  ports  Formyl  Violet  10B 

20  ,,  Diamine  Brilliant  Blue  G pat. 

according  to  Method  II  (page  171. 

25  parts  Diamine  Green  G pat. 

40  „ Diamine  Yellow  CP 

10  „ Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 

according  to  Method  I (page  17). 

40  parts  Formyl  Violet  10B 

20  „ Diamine  Brilliant  Blue  G pat. 

according  to  Method  II  (page  171. 

8 parts  Diamine  Green  G pat. 

30  „ Diamine  Brown  M 

22  „ Diamine  Brown  3G 

5 „ Union  Black  B pat. 

according  to  Method  I (page  17). 


IV 


26 


Shoddy  Goods  dyed  by  the  One-bath  Method, 

with  Diamine  and  Wool  Colours  printed  on. 


(See  also  page  24.) 


Dyed  with: 

No  IS.  0,4  o/o  Diamine  Black  RMW  pat. 

on  a grey  bottom. 


No  16.  0,7  o/o  Diamine  Black  BH 

0,5  o/o  Diamine  Fast  Yellow  B 
0,15%  Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 
0,02  °/o  Indian  Yellow  G 

on  a grey  bottom. 


No  17.  0,75o/o  Diamine  Black  RMW  pat. 

0,25  " 0 Diamine  Orange  B 
0,03  o/0  Formyl  Blue  B 

on  a drab  bottom. 


Printed  with: 

30  parts  Formyl  Violet  10  B 
60  „ Union  Black  B pat. 

according  to  method  I (page  17). 


25  parts  Diamine  Green  G pat. 

40  „ Diamine  Yellow  CP 

10  „ Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 

according  to  Method  I (page  17). 


10  parts  Diamine  Green  G pat. 
30  ,,  Diamine  Brown  M 

50  ,,  Diamine  Brown  3G 

according  to  Method  I (page  17). 


No  18.  0,35 o/0  Diamine  Black  RMW  pat. 

0,1  o/0  Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 
0,05  11  u Diamine  Fast  Yellow  B 

on  a drab  bottom. 


No  19.  0,7  o/0  Diamine  Black  BH 

0,5  o/o  Diamine  Fast  Yellow  B 
0,15  o/o  Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 
0,02  o/o  Indian  Yellow  G 
on  a grey  bottom. 


15  parts  Diamine  Green  G pat. 

15  „ Diamine  Yellow  CP 

20  „ Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 

10  „ Indian  Yellow  G 

according  to  Method  II  I page  17). 


100  parts  Union  Black  BN  for  Printing 

according  to  Method  I (page  171. 


V 


Shoddy  Goods  dyed  by  the  One-bath  Method, 

with  Diamine  and  Wool  Colours  printed  on. 


(See  also  page  24.) 


Dyed  with : 

No  20.  0,75  " o Diamine  Black  RMW  pat. 
0,25  ii  o Diamine  Orange  B 
0,03  o/o  Formyl  Blue  B 

on  a drab  bottom. 


No  21.  0,4  o/o  Diamine  Black  RMW  pat. 

on  a grey  bottom. 


No  22.  2,5  0/0  Diamine  Red  4B. 


No  23.  0,5  o/o  Diamine  Black  BH 

0,1  o/o  Formyl  Blue  B 
0.02  o/o  Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 
on  a grey  bottom. 


No  24.  0,7  o/o  Diamine  Black  BH 

0,5  o/o  Diamine  Fast  Yellow  B 
0,15  o/o  Brilliant  Milling  Green  B 
0,02  o/o  Indian  Yellow  G 

on  a grey  bottom. 


Printed  with : 

60  parts  Formyl  Violet  S4B 

according  to  Method  II  (page  17 1. 


9 parts  Formyl  Violet  10  B 
81  ,,  Union  Black  B pat. 

according  to  Method  I (page  17). 


70  parts  Oxy  Diamine  Black 

F F C extra  cone.  pat. 
5 „ Naphtol  Blue  Black 

according  to  Method  I (page  17). 

30  parts  Diamine  Green  G pat. 

45  „ Diamine  Yellow  CP 

according  to  Method  I (page  17). 


60  parts  Formyl  Violet  S4B 

according  to  Method  II  (page  17). 


w-& 

Special  19-OOb 


<*i®P'awrr 

Library 


